Annapurna Region
UpperMustangTrek
Overview
About This Trek
Upper Mustang is Nepal's hidden kingdom — a remote, arid plateau tucked behind the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges in a rain shadow that keeps it dry when the rest of Nepal is drenched by monsoon rains. The trek follows ancient salt-trading routes north from Kagbeni through a landscape of red and ochre rock formations, wind-carved caves, and crumbling cliff-side monasteries to the medieval walled city of Lo Manthang.
Lo Manthang, capital of the former Kingdom of Lo, is one of the last places in the world where traditional Tibetan culture survives largely intact. The city's whitewashed walls enclose four major monasteries, a royal palace, and narrow alleyways where daily life revolves around Buddhist practice, barley farming, and horse breeding. The annual Tiji festival (usually in May) features masked dances and ceremonies that have been performed for centuries.
Upper Mustang was closed to foreigners until 1992 and still requires a special restricted area permit, which limits visitor numbers and preserves the region's authenticity. The landscape is unlike anything else in Nepal — more reminiscent of the Tibetan plateau or the American Southwest, with dramatic erosion features, fossil beds, and cave dwellings that date back thousands of years.
Trek Highlights
- Medieval walled city of Lo Manthang
- Restricted area (limited visitor numbers)
- Tibetan Buddhist monasteries and culture
- Dramatic desert canyon landscapes
- Ancient cave dwellings and cliff monasteries
- Trekable during monsoon season (rain shadow)
Day by Day
SampleItinerary
Every itinerary is customised to your pace and fitness. This is a typical schedule — Deu adjusts based on conditions and your preferences.
Day 1
Pokhara to Jomsom
Early morning flight to Jomsom in the Kali Gandaki valley. Afternoon walk to explore the town and prepare for the trek north.
Altitude: 2,720m
Day 2
Jomsom to Kagbeni
Trek along the Kali Gandaki riverbed to the medieval trading town of Kagbeni. This is the checkpoint where restricted area permits are checked.
Altitude: 2,800m
Day 3
Kagbeni to Chele
Enter Upper Mustang. Cross the Kali Gandaki and climb through red rock canyons to the village of Chele.
Altitude: 3,050m
Day 4
Chele to Syangboche
Cross two high passes with views of Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri, and Tilicho Peak. Descend to the ancient settlement of Syangboche.
Altitude: 3,475m
Day 5
Syangboche to Ghami
Pass the longest mani wall in Nepal and cross the windy Nyi La pass. Descend to Ghami, the largest village before Lo Manthang.
Altitude: 3,520m
Day 6
Ghami to Lo Manthang
Final approach across the plateau to the walled city. First views of Lo Manthang's white walls against the brown landscape are unforgettable.
Altitude: 3,810m
Day 7
Lo Manthang exploration
Full day exploring the walled city. Visit Thubchen Gompa, Jampa Gompa, the Royal Palace, and surrounding monasteries.
Altitude: 3,810m
Day 8
Lo Manthang to Dhakmar
Return south via an alternative route through the red cliffs of Dhakmar, one of the most dramatic landscapes in Nepal.
Altitude: 3,820m
Day 9
Dhakmar to Samar
Continue south through eroded rock formations and wind-carved terrain. Visit Luri Gompa cave monastery if time permits.
Altitude: 3,620m
Day 10
Samar to Kagbeni
Descend back to Kagbeni through the canyon country. Exit the restricted area at the checkpoint.
Altitude: 2,800m
Day 11
Kagbeni to Jomsom, fly to Pokhara
Short walk back to Jomsom for the morning flight to Pokhara.
Altitude: 2,720m
The Landscape
Terrain
Upper Mustang is a high-altitude desert. The terrain is dry, rocky, and wind-sculpted, with deep canyons, eroded cliff faces in shades of red, orange, and grey, and wide river valleys strewn with gravel. Vegetation is sparse — scrub juniper, wild roses, and irrigated barley fields around settlements. The altitude stays between 2,800m and 3,800m, so the physical challenge is moderate compared to higher passes, but the wind and sun exposure are constant.
The People
Culture
Upper Mustang is ethnically and culturally Tibetan. The Loba people speak a Tibetan dialect, practice Tibetan Buddhism, and maintain social structures that predate the modern Nepali state. Monasteries in Lo Manthang contain centuries-old wall paintings and manuscripts. Cave complexes at Choser and Luri Gompa reveal that this region was inhabited thousands of years before Buddhism arrived. The relationship with Tibet — visible across the northern border — is geographic, cultural, and spiritual.
Before You Go
PracticalInformation
Permits Required
- Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit — USD 500 per person (first 10 days) + USD 50/day thereafter
- Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) — NPR 3,000 (~USD 23)
- TIMS Card — NPR 2,000 (~USD 15)
Guide Fees
- Guide — €40 per day
- Porter — €30 per day
Deu arranges all permits before your arrival. Permit costs are in addition to guide fees.
Packing Essentials
- Sun protection (strong UV at altitude in desert terrain)
- Windproof jacket and buff/scarf for dust
- Moisturiser and lip balm (extremely dry climate)
- Comfortable trekking boots (terrain is rocky but not steep)
- Camera with dust protection (fine sand gets everywhere)
- Warm layers for evenings (temperatures drop sharply after sunset)
- Refillable water bottles (limited water sources between villages)
When to Go
Best Season
May-October (rain shadow area — trekable during monsoon)
October and November offer the clearest skies and most stable weather across Nepal, with excellent visibility and comfortable daytime temperatures. March to May is warmer with longer days and rhododendron blooms at lower altitudes, though afternoon clouds are more common. Deu can advise on the best timing for your specific trek and preferences.
Common Questions
FrequentlyAskedQuestions
Why is Upper Mustang so expensive?
The restricted area permit costs USD 500 for 10 days, making it one of Nepal's most expensive treks. This fee was introduced when the region opened in 1992 to limit visitor numbers and protect Lo Manthang's cultural heritage. The fee goes to the government, not local communities. Despite the cost, many trekkers consider it excellent value for the unique, uncrowded experience.
Can I trek Upper Mustang during monsoon?
Yes — this is one of Upper Mustang's greatest advantages. The region sits in a rain shadow behind the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, receiving very little monsoon rainfall. June through August is actually a popular trekking season here, and the Tiji festival typically falls in May. The rest of Nepal is wet and cloudy during monsoon, but Upper Mustang stays dry and clear.
How physically demanding is the Upper Mustang trek?
Moderate. The altitude stays between 2,800m and 3,800m with no high passes above 4,000m. Daily walking is 5-7 hours on undulating terrain. The main challenges are wind, sun exposure, and dry conditions rather than steep climbs. It is more accessible than the Annapurna Circuit or Everest Base Camp in terms of altitude.
What is Lo Manthang like?
Lo Manthang is a small, walled city of about 150 houses and 800 people. It feels like stepping back several centuries. Narrow alleys, whitewashed buildings, ancient monasteries with butter lamps and chanting monks, and a royal palace that still houses the former king (the monarchy was formally dissolved but the king remains a respected figure). There are a few basic lodges and restaurants inside the walls.
Do I need to be in a group to get the permit?
The restricted area permit requires a minimum of two trekkers, but Deu can arrange for a second trekker or use his agency's group allocation to accommodate solo travellers. The permit must be arranged through a registered trekking agency — it cannot be obtained independently.
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